The Finger Lakes region of New York State has produced wine almost as long as any region in America. But until relatively recently, that wine was made from indigenous American grapes thatwere used to make cheap sparkling wine. It was not until the 1950s that Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian with a PhD in viticulture, emigrated to the region that anyone succeeded with fine wine grapes. He was a specialist in cool climate growing…and the Finger Lakes tested that skill. He was followed by Herman J. Wiemer, from the heart of Mosel in Germany, who developed a following for riesling in the 1970s and 1980s. But it’s only recently that wines from the region have earned widespread respect. And their cool climate whites--especially riesling--deserve that respect. Wineries like Ravines are producing dry rieslings that are so good I’ve chosen them for our table at major holidays like Thanksgiving and Christmas. And with the lakes, forests and farm land, it’s a pretty region to visit.