TheWineO

New Zealand

 New Zealand is lovely. That’s probably not news. I expected it to be lovely. What surprised me was this. Many countries--including our own--have lovely places. What was enlightening was that beauty was the norm in New Zealand. It wasn’t just a few places. It was a lot of places. And the beauty was enhanced by friendly, relaxed people. Again, it was not a surprise that there’s very good wine in New Zealand. What was a bit of surprise was how much there was of it. Sauvignon blancs, of course. But NZ wine is about far more than just sauvignon blanc. Lots of good pinot--some from well known wineries like Felton Road and Carrick…others from pleasant surprises like Desert Heart. And there are good syrahs and Bordeaux blends. If you like wines and you like beautiful places…New Zealand must be on your bucket list.

Finger Lakes

The Finger Lakes region of New York State has produced wine almost as long as any region in America. But until relatively recently, that wine was made from indigenous American grapes thatwere used to make cheap sparkling wine. It was not until the 1950s that Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian with a PhD in viticulture, emigrated to the region that anyone succeeded with fine wine grapes. He was a specialist in cool climate growing…and the Finger Lakes tested that skill. He was followed by Herman J. Wiemer, from the heart of Mosel in Germany, who developed a following for riesling in the 1970s and 1980s. But it’s only recently that wines from the region have earned widespread respect. And their cool climate whites--especially riesling--deserve that respect. Wineries like Ravines are producing dry rieslings that are so good I’ve chosen them for our table at major holidays like Thanksgiving and Christmas. And with the lakes, forests and farm land, it’s a pretty region to visit.

Virginia

There are now some 230+ wineries in Virginia. More than two centuries ago Thomas Jefferson predicted that Virginia could produce wine that would be as good as that in Europe. Different, but as good. And some of these 230+ wineries are making good wine. Not all, of course.  The damp climate can make it challenging…but some, like Veritas pictured, manage the moisture well. Others leading the way for Virginia wine include Linden, Michael Shaps, RdV, and Glen Manor. The serious wine they produce can get lost amidst some wineries that market beautiful scenery with mediocre wine. But a number of Virginia wineries are definitely worth visiting and their wines are worth seeking.

Bordeaux

The saying goes that most wine journeys begin or end in Bordeaux. Certainly it is full of storied estates...some of which are now priced out of the means of most mortals. But there are Bordeaux estates making great wine at prices that have not (yet) gone stratospheric. Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte and Chateau Pontet-Canet are two estates whose dramatic improvement since the early1990s has catapulted them into the front ranks while their prices have remained within the reach of most of us. Whether that will continue now that they have each received 100-point scores remains to be seen. But there are other estates on the rise...and in a vintage like 2009, which saw such consistent ripening, there are wines from lesser known and unknown estates whose value will exceed the price.

South Africa

The Cape Winelands are a stunning place to visit for a variety of reasons...spectacular beauty and the chance to discover wonderful wines are just two of them. The wine scene in South Africa is dynamic as new wineries are emerging daily and quality is dramatically increasing. Those wines are not yet as widely appreciated--or as widely availablle--in the US as they should be. I was particularly struck by the number of excellent mid-priced wines I tasted. Jean Smit at Boekenhoutskloof is making wonderful bold, expressive cab and syrah in the $40-$50 price range. And Hamilton Russell's pinot and chardonnay are excellent for $25-$35.

Barossa Valley

Australia's Barossa Valley contains some of the oldest vines in the world. This grenache bush vine at Turkey Flat is among the very oldest at about 150 years. The combination of warm, friendly Australian hosts and warm, spicy Australian wines makes the Barossa a great place for wine lovers to visit. One mild warning might be in order. Those friendly Australians really like to share that big, spicy wine. I did figure out that they were curious to see how much the Yank could drink. I just figured it out a touch too late.

Willamette Valley

In a little over 30 years, the wine industry in Oregon's Willamette Valley has gone from fledgling to world class. Pinot noir is certainly the signature grape--and it is now competing with Burgundy at a price that humans can afford. Obviously, given my name (Brooks) I have a particular affinity for Brooks Wine...and for the story of Jimi Brooks who had a great vision of what a family-owned biodynamic winery could be, but tragically died young before it could be fully realized. The good news is that his sister and others are carrying on his dream...and the wine they're producing is outstanding.  

Chile

Chile's vibrant wine industry is growing and reinventing itself as it does Once known for value wine, Chile is now producing an increasing range of outstanding wines...some from well-financed large operations such as Casa Lapostolle's Clos Apalta, whose beautiful barrel-lined tasting room is shown here. Others come from small estates, such as Antiyal, where a talented winemaker and his wife produce superb carmenere-based wines and blends...wines that beautifully represent those people and that place. I was reaching for a term to describe their unique wines...a friend said: "I call those wines that have soul."

Sonoma

Lovely and diverse as the wine regions of countries like South Africa and Chile are, America is blessed with its regions of both stunning beauty and stunning wine quality. Sonoma County is such a place. In the cooler regions such as the Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley, estates like Soliste, Hirsch, Littorai, Peay and Marcassin make world-class pinot noir and chardonnay. In the lovely region of Knight's Valley shown here (just north of Calistoga), Peter Michael and Delectus make world-class big reds. Further up the valley, old vine zinfandels thrive. It's a wonderful area for wine lovers to visit.

Argentina

Speaking of stunning wine regions...it's hard to beat the Mendoza region, with mountains risting to 25,000' at the end of the vineyards. This particular vineyard belongs to Achaval Ferrer...their single vineyard malbecs were outstanding. That really wasn't a surprise. What was a pleasant surprise were the outstanding wines from smaller family-owned estates such as Bressia. I tend to be more impressed by wines and wine people than wineries...but the greater Mendoza region (including the Uco Valley) has some new wineries that are absolutely breathtaking.

Tuscany

This picture doesn't do Tuscany justice...but what picture could? It's a land of lovely vineyards and olive groves and rolling hills and golden sunlight. Tuscany has inspired artists for centuries. Beyond lovely, it's enjoyable...somehow, in the peaceful old villages, with cheerful people, great little restaurants and wonderful, food-friendly wine, you get the feeling that the risk of stress-induced heart attack is pretty low here. Perhaps we could learn from that. If we can't adopt it permanently, at least we can share it for a while.

Loire Valley

The Loire is really several regions, linked by a river. Tours is near the middle (and close to Vouvray and Chinon). In Tours we found a little restaurant, owned by Jean-Michel Montagu who had been sommelier in some of Paris and New York's best known restaurants. I said: "You must have had all the famous wines...all the famous vinatages. What would you say is the very best wine?" He smiled and said: "That's easy. The best wine...the very best...is the wine you share with your best friend." He's right, of course. It is the sharing that matters most.

Chateauneuf du Pape

Perhaps this snapshot should be called "The Master and the Students" as we listen attentively to Jean-Paul Autard of Domaine Paul Autard in front of his rustic winery and tasting room. Jean-Paul may not look old (at least compared to his "Students") but he's been running Paul Autard for several decades since his father unexpectedly passed away when he was a teenager. And his commitment shows in Chateauneuf du Papes that have richness and warmth and sense of place.

Mendocino

I've been blessed with the chance to travel to many places...a number of them beautiful (and a few not so lovely). But I don't believe I've ever been anywhere more beautiful than California's Mendocino. Watching the sun set on waves crashing over the rocks below the cliffs after a day of tasting wines and picnicking in the redwoods--it just doesn't get much better than that. And towns don't get much more laid back than Mendocino. But behind all the beauty is a wine region that bears increased attention. Top quality pinots, Alsatian whites, and sparkling wines are all marking the Anderson Valley as a serious emerging area. A few big names are in the region...but most are small estates where the person pouring the wine is likely the owner or a member of the family.  It's a great region to visit.

Napa

There are lovely chateaux and stunning vistas...but at the core of every great winery you will find people--people who are passionate about making the very best wine they possibly can. And when they share their wine with you, in a real sense, they are sharing their lives with you. People like Gerhard and Linda Reisacher, who own Delectus. Gerhard makes the wine and Linda manages the business. And every customer matters to them. Paul Pontallier, who runs Chateaux Margaux with a large and talented team, is a very charming man. But he is also a very busy man, travellng all over the world--you can visit Bordeaux many times and perhaps never catch sight of him. At Delectus--and places like it around the world--you can drink wine with the people who made it, like Gerhard and Linda.